The Beauty Run

Founder and Editor Malika Isles takes a look back at the month of fashion in a special FW17 highlight feature...

As always, fashion month is a busy one. From New York, to London, to Milan and then finally Paris I’m more often than not left feeling confused, frazzled and overwhelmed. One amazing show closes, you prepare to write up a review, and then BAM something else beautiful is presented by yet another designer which leaves you at a mental halt. As a fashion lover reading this, I’m sure you feel exactly the same and don’t really have a clue where to start. So I decided to take a look back at the month of fashion and present you with the highlights:

Sid Neigum

Sid Neigum FW17

During the busy few days of London Fashion Week, I had the opportunity to get down to see the Canadian designer’s FW17 presentation up close and personal. Sid’s Fall/Winter 2017 palette is his boldest and perhaps most symbolic to date. Opulent gold velvet and red jacquard are used in excess, exaggerating Sid’s signature golden ratio proportions. One look that stood out the most was a wide sleeved white blouse which gathered at the waist, and a gold long sleeve velvet top which was characterised by a three tie up knot detail on the back.

Sid Neigum FW17

The use of rich gold was SO refreshing. AOFM Pro was on makeup, and created a simple stripped back dewy look on the models. Some of you may have seen clips of the collection on our Instagram Stories, but of course this couldn’t compare to how beautiful the pieces looked in real life.

David Koma

David Koma FW17

Now the collection felt very 2011 Kim K, and by this I mean the heavy use of leathers, khakis and fur. Taking inspiration from the choka, a traditional “warrior dress” worn by Georgian men – looks included a floor length waist coat, diagonal square stitched puffer coats with dramatic fur lapels and also a black leather mini skirt with a khaki fur trim. This collection was truly beautiful, and was definitely one of my favourites from London Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli FW17

Since the departure of Peter Dundas, an anonymous design team have taken the reins whilst the fashion house appoints a new director. Despite this, the collection presented at Milan Fashion Week was nothing short of stunning. Instead of a runway show, the label hosted a 28 look presentation in Milan’s decadent Palazzo Crespi.

Roberto Cavalli FW17

The choice of venue, along with the style of the collection felt extremely representative of regality. Some of the looks were so intricately detailed that they looked more like pieces from a couture collection, as opposed to ready-to-wear – such as the floor length sheer gowns. The choice of colours were also very simple and classic as the majority of the looks were either black or white. The high-waist wide leg white trousers, paired alongside a flamboyant ostrich feather coat was one of my favourite looks.

Moschino

Moschino FW17

Jeremy Scott never fails to impress me with his fun and extravagant take on high fashion. The hard invites sent out to attendees resembled swiss cheese which were attached to an end of a mouse trap, representing the collection theme of “cardboard couture”. This theme was part of the wider narrative of a rich clothes horse gone broke. In the collection we saw a innovative take on the classic trench, which had ‘fragile’ and ‘handle with care’ notes printed onto the crumpled finish of the coat.

Moschino FW17

We also saw Moschino printed T-shirts which resembled paper bags as handles were stitched to the bottom and centre. As the looks progressed, we saw outfits that looked like makeshift magazine cut-outs, a rich red dress with gold trimming which appeared to be a curtain, and a black cocktail dress held together by silver masking tape. Again, Jeremy Scott got an A* from me for his creativity.

Chanel

Chanel FW17

Only Karl Lagerfeld can launch a full blown rocket at the Grand Palais in Paris. The galactic theme of the Chanel FW17 collection saw a new take on their classic staples. The models wore metallic, glittery lunar boots, sparkly tweed and even oversized mirrored aviators, looking as though they were ready to venture out of this world into space. Although still very representative of Chanel’s signature aesthetic, Lagerfeld successfully presented a modern take on the Chanel we know so well and love.

Despite the frantic nature of fashion week, it’s always an exciting time. Seeing how the designers continue to innovate and push creative boundaries blows me away, and is always more than a pleasure to watch and comment on. I look forward to seeing what’s in store for SS18.

Fashion - Sunday, March 19, 2017

Feature: FASHION WEEK HIGHLIGHTS

Founder and Editor Malika Isles takes a look back at the month of fashion in a special FW17 highlight feature... As always...

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Running 30 mins late in true Balmain fashion, classical music led by the sound of violin played as attendees filled the space. The lights went down and heavy rock music began to play, vividly contrasting the previously soft and comforting sound.

Gigi Hadid opened the show, rocking a distressed black and orange tie-dye shirt which was paired with an embellished suede skirt finished with tassels in varying shades of brown. These colours felt very representative of the Earth, one of the four elements. With a metallic lip present on most of the models, together with three sleek braids – it was evident that the overarching theme of the collection was 90's grunge meets tribal. Rousteing revealed backstage: "It’s all about a return to the forces of nature. I wanted to create strong Amazons. Women’s power today is extremely important, and I think I reflect that with this collection. It’s very feminist"

As the collection progressed, the looks were characterised by detailed patchworks, jacquard, embellishment, leather appliqué, metallic studs, tassels and fringe – highlighting Rousteing's skill in craftsmanship. Starting off with browns and gold, as the show progressed we saw deep Earthy red tones emerge, all the way to silver and even a number of looks in stark black. Rousteing went all out with the prints this season, clashing a number of different textures which felt a little different than any of his previous collections.

Most of the outfits were worn with long suede boots which progressed way above the usual thigh-high. Although aspects of the collection felt very similar to the colonial feel of his SS17 collection, Olivier added an extra layer with the incorporation of 90's grunge. The t-shirt's of the wolf and the moon, together with the fire effect tie-dye prints that emerged throughout the show reinforced this grunge feel.

Olivier Rousteing successfully incorporated Balmain's utilitarian meets luxe aesthetic once again. Although the looks were busier than usual, Rousteing did extremely well.

Words By: Malika Isles

Fashion - Tuesday, March 07, 2017

PARIS FASHION WEEK: Balmain FW17

... Running 30 mins late in true Balmain fashion, classical music led by the sound of violin played as attendees filled the space. The l...

We sent Fashion and style influencer Henrietta Darko, who runs Slayin With HD down to London Fashion Week to report on David Ferreira’s AW17 collection. Here is her special report on Ferreira’s ‘Freakball’ inspired collection...

...

Entering backstage I was hit with an explosion of colour from garments, to make up and hair. As I made my way around the room there was a real sense of oddity. Looking closely at the hair that was styled by Toni & Guy, it had the inspiration of the 30's with scalp gripping waves, over use of bobby pins and flamboyant colour dyes.

Lan Nguyen-Grealis and team were on the make up, giving models blocked colour looks with eyeshadow that overrode the creases of the eye, pale blue eyebrows, over-applied rosy red blush and porcelain doll-like lips. Hair and make up really screamed freakball, clowns and circus queers. Without even accounting for David Ferreira’s AW17 collection, I got a real sense of the theme solely through the beauty direction.

Photography by Simon Armstrong

David Ferreira is a Lisbon-based womenswear label designed by David himself. Ferreira graduated with his AW15 collection at The University of Westminster studying The BA (Hons) Fashion Design course. His vision for the label focuses on the relationship between traditional and modernity. Ferreira’s amazing artistry and technique opens the door for women to experience new silhouettes, giving shape to his modern approach to couture.

Prior to setting up his own label, he has worked for designers such as Iris Van Herpen, Giles Deacon and Meadham Kirchhoff. Winning The merit award, Ferreira received 3 years of fully sponsored catwalk shows with Fashion Scout.

Photography by Simon Armstrong

Taking a seat at the show, the lights dimmed and four large fluorescent spotlights projected onto the catwalk. As I looked up, distorted and oversized silhouettes emerged from the top of the runway and the music began to echo its way through the hall. The collection featured abstract silhouettes glorified by Mongolian lamb fur coats, jumpers and trouser trims.

Photography by Simon Armstrong

The chartreuse yellow dress and lime green feathered head piece pictured above reinforced the idea of the circus. Voluminous shapes prevailed throughout the collection, created by gatherings, ruffles, pattern cutting and godês which really manipulated the ‘normal’ human-like womans shape.

The colour palette consisted of turquoise, baby blue, midnight blue, chartreuse yellow and pinks. The final piece was a balloon silhouetted tulle and satin dress which awkwardly graced the runway, almost resembling a creature, a creatives beauty in societies ugly. All garments exhibited the ethos of the show being unique and celebrating individuality through shape and colour.

Photography by Simon Armstrong

This collection is undeniably breathtaking. The freak show ambiance was effortlessly vehicled by the music, garments, beauty direction and the performance of the models. David Ferreira celebrates rarity through his designs and yet again successfully brought art and fashion together. This was no doubt legendary fashion in the making.

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Fashion - Saturday, February 25, 2017

REVIEW: David Ferreira AW17

We sent Fashion and style influencer Henrietta Darko , who runs Slayin With HD down to London Fashion Week to report on David Ferreira’s ...

We sent Fashion and lifestyle writer Jennifer Sharma, who runs The Jenuine Article Blog down to London Fashion Week to experience the buzz of the bi-annual extravaganza. Here is her special report on N&S Gaia...

On Friday 17th February, I went down to the N&S Gaia AW17 show titled 'The Hybrid'. On a perfect day in the capital, the air was cool and the sun shone righteously on the crowds of fashion folk. Attendees were adorned in vivid colour, sequins and even high-gloss PVC, as if they were lifted from the very pages of a glossy magazine. After the spectacle of fashionista's outside of the show, I was excited to get inside and see what N&S Gaia had to offer.

Photography by Marc Atken

Originating from New Delhi, N&S Gaia was founded in 2013 by designer and creative director Sidharth Sinha. This was the second time the brand has appeared at London Fashion Week, an encore to the SS17 collection. Featured on the likes of Vogue, Grazia and Elle – Sidharth Sinha is definitely one to watch.

Photography by Marc Atken

Backstage at the show I got a glimpse of the garments up close, along with the beauty looks. The models' hair was styled by Toni & Guy and the look created was a twist on the classic topknot, with an “Adele at the Grammys” undone kind of appeal. Makeup was by Kryolan and featured statement brows. If you thought eyebrows were important in 2016, then 2017 will be taking it up a notch. Lets just say wild and bushy brows are here to stay.

Photo by Jennifer Sharma

Without a doubt, this collection is a masterpiece. The fabrics were so intricate with no attention to detail spared. Carrying the essence of the brands signature, exaggerated details were heavily featured such as opulent ruffles, ornate appliqué and embroidery with glitzy embellishments. The collection is inspired by nature photography, which can be seen by the earthy colours and muted green undertones. However, these subtle colours are punctuated by bright pops of colour and winter florals.

Photography by Marc Atken

The silhouettes featured were very fluid. Drapes and sweeping shapes felt romantic and perhaps suggestive of the Greek goddess with which the brand shares its name. Again, these soft and fluid silhouettes were broken up by the occasional column and bold appliqué. For me the standout look was a draped, long length gown with a statement single shoulder strap that created a half-sash floral garland. Perhaps what is most inspiring about this brand and the collection is its dedication to the industry, the environment and longevity (N&S stands for nature and sustainability) through the use of natural dyes and fibres. This is fashion with a conscience at its best.

Twitter: @JenuineStyle
Blog: www.thejenuinearticleblog.com